Polar Bear Express: Southeast Svalbard

Board your flight in Norway and arrive in Longyearbyen, Svalbard - the world's northernmost... everything! This remarkable little city is not only the northernmost town in the world (if one excludes the tiny research community of Ny-Ålesund, slightly further north on Svalbard), but also hosts the world's northernmost civilian airport, schools, bank and supermarket. The town's rugged frontier edge belies a core of warm Nordic hospitality and coziness - hyggligt, as we say in Denmark! 

Immediately after landing in Longyearbyen, you find yourself in a different world. The chilly Arctic breeze can be felt as soon as you step onto the tarmac, and the famous signpost outside the terminal reminds visitors how far north they really are; as well as to keep watch for bears! The snow-capped mountain Hjorthfjellet looms over the airport on the far side of Adventfjorden, and off in the distance can be seen the saw-toothed peaks and languid glaciers of northern Spitzbergen. 

After arrival, you will board the awaiting Ocean Albatros. After our mandatory safety briefing and lifeboat drill, head onto the outer decks to enjoy a glass of champagne while watching your expedition vessel leave civilisation behind... And set a course for adventure!

During the night, your expedition vessel will reposition away from the last vestiges of civilisation on Svalbard, and head into the wilderless of this storied land. Roughly triangular, the southern half of Svalbard comprised the lower half of the island of Spitsbergen, the island of Edgeøya, and countless fjords, islets and skerries, all of which beckon exploration. 

At a first glance, this region may seem barren and lifeless. But look closer and the exact opposite it true - saxifrages, Svalbard poppies and other tundra plants defy the brutal weather, their jewel-like flowers reaching for the weak Arctic sunlight. Tiny calico snow buntings flit between crags, while perfectly camouflaged purple sandpipers scamper along the shore. Look higher up on the vegetated slopes, and there - greyish white 'boulders' move and resolve themselves into sheep-sized reindeer: the unique subspecies native to Svalbard. A flash of bluish-black, and the screeches of nearby birds herald the arrival of the Arctic fox, the only native land predator on Svalbard (the polar bear being classified as a marine mammal). 

Life on Svalbard relies on the sea - even the few land mammals such as the reindeer and Arctic foxes rely on the moisture brought by the frigid Arctic waters, and it is in the marine environment where Svalbard's biodiversity is richest. Walrus haul their vast bodies onto flat beaches to rest, where they snuggle together for warmth and protection. Belugas frolic in vast pods in the waters off the coast, harvesting fish and crustaceans from the seabed, and further offshore the vast gentle baleen whales feast upon copepods and small fish. 

Southern Svalbard is arguably the first part of the island to be exploited by humans. On Edgeøya, vast piles of snow-bleached bones bear witness to the systematic and industrial-scale slaughter of walrus an beluga in their thousands. The earliest humans on the islands (mainly English and Dutch whalers and Russian Pomor trappers) had little regard for conservation, seeking only profit, a situation which continued well into the 19th century. Thankfully all wildlife on Svalbard is now protected by law, and vast tracts of the archipelago are designated as nature reserves and National Parks - some of the largest and richest in the world! 

The exact landing sites we will visit in the south of Svalbard will be determined by wind, sea and ice conditions, which can wildly vary day to day and year to year; this far north, all human activity is subject to the whims of Mother Nature. Possibilities to explore on south Spitzbergen include the fjord systems of Bellsund and Hornsund, where birds cluster together on high cliffs and reindeer graze on the fertile slopes below while icebergs drift by from the various large glaciers in the area. Further east on Edgeøya, sites include the walrus colonies of Andréetangen and Kapp Lee, and the spectacular raised shorelines and bird colonies of Sundneset.

During the evening, the Ocean Albatros will reposition to return to the port of Longyearbyen. Even this small town will feel like a metropolis after day spent exploring the wilderness! 

Longyearbyen is a fascinating town to explore, and offers excellent amenities to visitors. Visit the peerless Svalbard Museum and see relics of the whaling era, perfectly preserved in the frigid permafrost, alongside exhibits on the natural history of this remarkable archipelago. Shop for memories in the many excellent boutiques of the town, selling locally produced souvenirs, artworks and homewares, or simply relax on a sunny cafe terrace and watch this remarkable little town in action. 

After enjoying exploring Longyearbyen, return to Svalbard Airport and join your flight back to the Norwegian mainland- with memories to last a lifetime.